Incredible! India

That is the slogan of India’s department of tourism, so I thought I would plagiarize and use the same gimmick to commence my account of India’s Golden Triangle. I have to specify that I only saw this part of India because India is such a big country that one could spend more than a year exploring its various landscapes. It really is an incredible country that cannot properly be seen in one week as I attempted. Just when I started to get comfortable with Indian culture, I had to leave. Oh, well, there is always a next time, but I am certainly not returning unless I have company. India is not a paradise for solo tourists. In the absence of company, it becomes difficult to reduce the intensity of the frontal attacks of Indian customs, hygiene, behavior, language and religion, and the sheer size of the monuments that are on the checklist.

First Point of the Golden Triangle: Old and New Delhi

I arrived at 2 am into the New Delhi airport, but the airport was as busy as any other time of the day. Even the moneychangers were awake and ready to take my money and convert it into Indian rupees, skimming a portion of the money off from the top for the government. I wonder where that money even goes. (India’s government is so corrupt on so many levels. There are so many taxes and yet people suffer from so many hygienic and social privations that you really ponder whether the taxes are for the benefit of the country or for the benefit of those on the top. There are projects in Delhi concerning the infrastructural improvements of the city, but I doubt that will improve the quality of life for the average person.)

Since it was so early, I had no desire to venture out and find my hotel, so I pulled out my sleeping bag—this time having been assured that it was no problem to lay down and rest—and slept for a couple of hours. I cleaned up in the bathroom around 4:45 am then found the pre-paid taxi stand, which is the best way of insuring a fair price on transportation. (I must say that getting a fair price on transportation was the most difficult aspect of the trip. The rickshaw drivers were always jacking up the price for foreigners, so you really needed to be on your toes.) I reached Camran Lodge, which was located in the backpackers area called Parahganj, around 5:30 am and checked into my room to take a rest. The area around the hotel was under construction, so I cannot say that it had the best ambience, but it was cheap and the bed was decent. There was no ventilation and I didn’t sleep well, but it was better than nothing. I do not even have a right to complain, however, because the room only cost me three dollars per night! For that price, you cannot raise your eyebrows too high. The reception was really great, though, and the manager was very friendly and trustworthy. That makes all the difference. I can deal with bathroom/shower combinations that smell like urine and small rooms with no air circulation as long as the staff is kind and makes me feel safe.

Since I only had a day and a half in Delhi, I wanted to see everything I could, except that I did not really know what there was to see in Delhi. Apparently, there is a lot to see because I was occupied for nine hours and spent about 75 dollars in one day to see the sights! After feeling rested and prepared for the day, I ventured out onto the dusty street that was teeming with people. That street was quite intimidating on the first day, but when I returned to Delhi on my way out of India, that same street no longer felt as imposing. That is what I mean about getting used to a place. When you are not properly acclimated to a place or refuse to acclimate, you feel a lot more fear and anxiety than when you can accept the differences and square your shoulders to the things that might seem daunting. Anyway, I met an auto-rickshaw driver almost right away and he was really nice, but I knew he was charging me too much; however since it was my first day and I wanted to feel safe, I went along with him. Come to find out, I had paid triple the amount people usually pay! Oh, well, he did a good job for me and really enabled me to see the whole city in one day.

I was so tuckered out by the end of the day that I only ventured out for the Internet on my second day before catching my bus to Agra. I needed to recuperate and process after such a long day. Let me tell you what I saw: Red Fort, Jama Maslid—a famous mosque, Qutb Minar—the tallest minaret in India, I believe, and a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Humayan’s Tomb—also a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the Lotus Temple, the India Gate, Cannaught Place, and Delhi Haat, my favorite part of Delhi. So what are all these places and why are they considered significant?

Let me give you a little background information that I gleaned from my week in India. Basically, all the places of interest and World Heritage Sites were built by the Moghuls, which were India’s greatest line of emperors and rulers. While in power, this strong line of rulers made India into an outpost of power. For more than two centuries, they controlled India, and in my opinion, it has never been as good as it was during this period—a golden age of sorts. First, the Red Fort is literally a fort that was created as a military post and built with red brick. Since this part of India is more or less the desert, most of the buildings are done in brick of various colors. The fort was nice and since it was my first introduction to Moghul architecture, I was quite impressed. The funniest thing about going to these monuments was being approached by guys of ranging ages who wanted to have their pictures taken with me. Hilarious! It was strange at first, but then I got used to it and kind of enjoyed contributing back to society, if you will. I mean when you think about it, it is kind of nice to be able to give the locals something considering I am a stranger in their country, taking full advantage of their culture and their heritage. I smiled somewhat awkwardly for all of them, but now they have an American redhead to remember :)

Second, we took a small cycle rickshaw—a bicycle with a cart attached in which the customer sits—to the Jama Maslid, which is the equivalent of a basilica in a European city in terms of importance and religious meaning. To be a Jama Maslid, I believe you have to be the biggest mosque in the city. It was an impressive structure, and I had a tour guide explain to me the meaning of the architecture and the various symbols on the walls and floors. Unfortunately, it was also my first experience with the way India’s tourism industry works: get your piece of the pie and take advantage of the tourists who do not understand the way things work. For instance, I paid four dollars to get inside the mosque, which is free for locals, and immediately, someone assisted me in putting on a cloak—necessary for all foreigners—and offered to give me a tour. He said nothing about payment, so I assumed it was a part of the entrance fee. Come to find out, he wanted an extra five dollars for the tour, which I did not expect. I felt really bad explaining to him that I thought his service was included and that I would only tip him. He was mad, but I said that I was sorry and that had I known he was for hire I would never have used his services. I never made that mistake again in terms of assuming someone wanted to facilitate a good experience at the various monuments. Tourism is huge for India, so getting a piece of the pie is definitely something that everyone attempts in various ways from giving unofficial tours to taking good photos for the tourists to selling trinkets as souvenirs.

In Delhi, I literally went from monument to monument, which is the reason why I got a little lonely on my first day. Seeing monuments and famous sites is not as fun by oneself than with other people. Next were Humayan’s Tomb and Qutb Minar, which are more Moghul monstrosities that demonstrate the incredible skill of this dynasty. I was continually blown away by the sheer size of these structures and the condition in which they had remained. By the time I was done with Qutb Minar, I was ready to go back to my hole-in-the-wall hotel and rest, but my driver suggested that I go to a few more places since I was paying him for the day and paying him a hefty sum at that.
My last few stops were very relaxed. I went to the Lotus Temple, which is a modern Bah’ai temple in the city center. It is huge and seemed to welcome a ton of people each day. I did not enter because I could not muster up enough energy or interest in the premises to remove my shoes. That is another annoying thing about visiting some of these places is having to remove one’s shoes then having to deal with the extreme heat of the ground. I breezed past the India Gate—looks like the Arc de Triomphe—and Connaught Place—a circular shopping center that was overwhelmed by construction projects—on my way to my final destination: Delhi Haat. This place took all my money, which I was happy to hand over for the products I purchased and the manner in which they treated me. They call it a cottage industry, which means that families are the ones who make the products with good fibers and natural dyes. When I entered the complex I had not planned on buying anything, but of course, upon entering a place with so many textiles, I could not help myself!

I love the way Indians shop. You sit down¬—and at this place they serve you water and bottomless Indian chai—and you stare at all the fabrics and saris in front of you. With a small flick of your hand, you indicate which product you would like to see and the salesman (I did not see any saleswomen) will showcase all those colors and styles right in front of you. You only move to lean forward to touch and examine the fabric. Like a magic show, they unfold the fabrics with a flourish. It is so dazzling and mesmerizing that once you sit down, you cannot help but buy something. What I liked about Delhi Haat is that all the prices were fixed and you could tell the products were quality. I did not mind paying a little more for the opportunity to talk extensively with the salesman and to ask him questions of how things are made, where they are made and with which types of fabrics, etc. It was fascinating and at the end I had a good idea of how my purchases were made and by whom.

After my tuk tuk ride through Delhi’s highs and lows, I was ready for a good long rest and ready to get a move on. My chosen form of transportation was the train. Thankfully, there is a wonderful Internet site called cleartrip.com that made my life so much easier in finding a reliable train ticket without the hassle of finding a good middleman through whom to purchase the ticket. Impressed by the ease of purchase, I was hoping that the actual travel would be as simple and as safe.

Second Point of the Golden Triangle: Agra and the Taj Mahal

I had heard many stories of troubles people encounter on the trains, so I approached the train station with a little trepidation. Transportation is always one of the hardest and most expensive parts of travel. Thanks to cleartrip.com I was able to get good seats and for an average of eight dollars each time, which is really good. I thought to myself that since I was paying so little I could not expect much from the train, but I was pleasantly surprised. Granted the first bunk bed I had purchased was not in the air-conditioned car and I was on the 2nd Tier on the top and over to the side. It was so hot and stuffy because there was no airflow and the fans did not reach me, but it was far removed from everyone else and I felt safe. Again, I will pretty much endure any sort of discomfort in order to feel safe. It was good that the train ride only lasted a couple of hours and that I was surrounded by nice families the whole way over.

Agra was supposed to be a crazy busy place with lots of touts and altogether difficult to deal with. In fact, the people with whom I had spoken concerning Agra said that it is only worthwhile for the Taj Mahal and that it can be done in a day trip from Delhi. I am really glad that I decided to go forward and stay in each place of the triangle. My hotel was fantastic and as soon as I located my room, an Irish girl popped her head out of the doorway and asked if I would like to go to dinner with her group. I do not know if I sounded desperate or not, but I did sound emphatic about wanting to go. I felt very blessed that I had finally encountered people with whom I could spend some time. They turned out to be really great people and I ended up traveling around with them for four days or the majority of my time.

Dining is really cheap in India. You can get a filling meal for less than two dollars. Of course, many people get sick from the food, but I continued to believe that God would keep my stomach strong the whole time. Nothing is worse than being holed up with a nauseous stomach. We decided to get an autorickshaw together and to spend the day seeing the sights. Getting up early is quite easy when you know that you are off to a place like the Taj Mahal. Sunrise is really the best time to go if you want serenity. Arriving at 5:45 am, we almost had the whole place to ourselves. The building looked gorgeous as opposed to when the strong sun is glinting off the stone and one can hardly see the visage. You know, I did not know what to expect from this famous structure. It has been displayed in so many venues and on so many objects that one feels as if he or she is already familiar with its grandeur before even taking a peep. I have to say it was more beautiful and more grandiose than I ever expected. Then there was the fun of taking pictures in front of it and knowing that you were actually there and not just photo-shopping yourself in front of it :)

After the Taj we went to four other things of significance in Agra. Many people go to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and then fail to view the other impressive structures of the city. What else can one see in Agra? First, there is the Agra Fort, then Itmad-Ud-Daulah and Metab Bagh, and for the strong in constitution Fatephur Sikri, which lies about 25 miles from the city. Going from place to place can become a little tedious and hot, but with good company, the experience is much more lively. I was continually amazed at the beauty of everything we beheld.

The Agra Fort was better than the Red Fort only when we discovered that the Fort actually extended past the courtyard we found ourselves in for an hour. When you enter, you can remain in a nice courtyard and take a calm stroll around the arched walkway that wrapped around or you can appreciate the simple courtyard and move on to the more spectacular part of the building. We were confused as to how one gets to the other part of the complex, but after a conversation with a tour guide who wanted to sell his services, we found a small Alice in Wonderland-esque door that led to the famous portion of the Fort. With a good laugh and some self-deprecation, we had a nice time exploring the surprise area.

Itmad-Ud-Daulah is called the baby Taj because it looks like a smaller and redder version of the Taj Mahal. Even though it was smaller and less impressive than the Taj, I was still taken by the beauty of the structure. One cannot help but admire almost equally all the architecture of these historical edifices, particularly since they create the same effect of rising majestically from the dinginess of common Indian infrastructure and social settings. Not a fort or a tomb, Metab Bagh is a garden that was specifically created to view properly the Taj Mahal from the other side of the river. We had a grand time taking fun pictures in front of the Taj to see how many positions we could create that would form lasting memories. Our driver was fantastic in directing us to take this type of picture and that type of picture, to stand this way and that. It was hilarious! He was really a great man and took good care of us for the day. I had wonderful experiences with my drivers; even the one who charged way too much was very nice and accommodating.

At the end of our half-day tour, which was really enough for one whole day, we were famished and asked our driver to recommend a place where locals go but has safe food and is cheap. He took us to an amazing little restaurant that served these things called Thalis (come to find out these are kind of a popular combo dishes one can find in restaurants and they give you a taste of many little dishes) and I foolishly bought my very own platter. I was so stuffed at the end that I just wanted to curl up and go to sleep, but instead, I hopped on a local bus that was filled to capacity—I did get a seat though—and traveled by myself to Fatephur Sikri. I was surprised when they said that it would take one hour or more to get only 25 miles, but once I got on the bus, I quickly realized the reason. It took forever to navigate our way through the city because of all the rickshaws, pedestrians, peddlers and animals. I mean it was a disaster; then there was this guy next to me who was trying to sleep and I wanted to understand and be compassionate because I know how tempting it is to sleep on a bus and how great it is to use that down time to relax. However, this guy chose the most invading position possible in that his elbow was directly placed underneath my boob and jutting into my side. I knew he was not trying necessarily to invade my personal space because I looked over and saw that he was also periodically using the guy next to him as a pillow, but I could not help myself from trying to wriggle out of that small space.

Once I descended the bus, a student from the local mosque approached me and told me that he would like to guide me. From my other experiences, I was a little wary and did not want to get myself into a compromising position where I would have to pay someone that I had not planned on paying. He assured me that I did not have to pay him, and since I was discombobulated from the heat and the food rumbling around my stomach, I acquiesced and followed him through a maze of narrow alleys, garbage lined paths and excrement covered footpaths. I was a little light headed and not at the top of my game, so I felt bad for the guy who was trying to guide me. I could tell he was a decent chap but I was way too out of it to be as animated as I would have previously been. I think it was about 120 degrees in the sun and Fatephur Sikri was completely laid bare under the sun. I tried valiantly to buck up and enjoy myself, which I achieved to some extent. I even mustered a smile for a picture my guide insisted on taking. I had planned to pay about five dollars for the site, which I did not end up paying, so I decided that I would give that to my guide since he really did facilitate a good experience. There would have been no way that I could have reached those historical ruins on my own especially in the heat.

He asked me if I liked henna, and I said yes and that I planned to get it done before leaving India. After expressing interest, he informed me that he knew someone who could do the henna for me. Of course, I asked how much and he said that whatever I wanted to pay was fine. Well, I told him that since I had paid nothing for the monument, I would give him the intended money for both the tour and the henna. He agreed and I felt good about the deal, which seemed to prevent exploitation from occurring on either side. Winding once again past the mosque and many houses and small shops, we ended up at his room/home, which was quite nice and equipped with a fridge and television. I was actually quite exhausted and the seat felt great. My guide left me, and I was not quite sure what he was up to when teenage girls started to flock inside the room. They all poked and prodded me in a very cute and funny way. I gave away every stick of jewelry and key chain I had with me at that time because they were so curious that I wanted to leave something behind for them.

The girl who drew the henna tattoo was probably about 14 years old and she had a lovely smile and did a pretty good job on my “tattoo” but she was obviously a novice because another girl—older and more experienced—helped her when she got stuck. It was one of those moments where I was thankful to be alone. When you are traveling with other people, you remain within your nucleus, but when you are alone, you have to choose to interact and the interactions you can potentially have are unique. There are always the positives and negative sides of everything and I was thankful to be experiencing the genuine side of India—even though the girls asked me for money when they had already been paid.

On the way back to Agra, I met some other white people on the bus. (I would never say that in the U.S. but when everyone around you looks quite distinctly different, it is an easy and quick way to identify yourself and other Westerners.) They were from Canada and were really nice, particularly the guy I sat next to. Like I have mentioned previously, when you meet those really interesting travelers and locals, it makes traveling all the more worthwhile. Monuments and World Heritage Sites are interesting but often they fade in greatness as the days pass and as you see more and more of them. Fascinating people with good stories, however, stay in one’s memory for much longer. It was a good way to end the trip to Fatephur Sikri and my time in Agra, which was quite exceptional.

Third Point in the Golden Triangle: Jaipur

Our hotel was really chill in Agra, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the accommodations were even better in Jaipur. Let me back up a little: I left really early in the morning from Agra. Since my new Irish friends were also traveling in the same direction, we decided that it would be great to stay together in the same hotel. I told them the name of the hotel where I was planning to stay and we all agreed that we would meet up when they arrived. I would do a little footwork for them at the hotel to see the room situation, etc. then we would continue our travels together. The train I took from Agra was great. I had a chair car in the air-conditioned section, which was fabulous because the travel does not leave you feeling sweaty and disgusting. As I was exiting, I met another white girl from Australia and she was planning to go to the same hotel at which I had intended to stay, but it was all full, so we went to another hotel my friends and I had discovered. We really hit it off and ended up renting a room together for the night. It was fabulous to have someone else with me and to share the costs.

I waited for quite some time for my friends to arrive. When it came time for their supposed arrival, I went to the original meeting place to wait for them. I waited for 20 minutes and no one showed up. Then I returned to my hotel and asked if anyone had arrived, and still no sign of them. I went through the rigmarole again after another half and hour or so only to find out that their train is habitually late and that they would not arrive for some time. My new friend and I had lunch then took a rest waiting for them to arrive. Just as we were about to exit the hotel to go to the bazaar, my friends walked in looking a little travel weary. I felt so bad, but we all agreed to eat dinner together after they had properly rested.

What a joy it was to be with another traveler and an interesting one at that! I am just amazed at how people arrive at a point where they decide to travel about, and everyone has such different reasons, backgrounds, and circumstances that have facilitated or impeded a certain lifestyle. My new friend and I walked through Jaipur’s bazaar, which is quite extensive, in search of some clothes that would make her more modest. We both agreed how much more comfortable we felt in pseudo-Indian clothing that tends to cover the body fully, making one feel less exposed in a place where staring eyes wander. Even though Jaipur is on the tourist circuit, there were very few tourists roaming around in the bazaar, so we had the opportunity to see how the locals shop. They shop in exactly the same manner as what I experienced in Delhi Haat. You sit down and point at the product you would like to see, and if that particular shop does not have it, they will take you to their other shop or find a brother or cousin who has a similar product for you to try on.

Shopping in the bazaar was a good place to start in Jaipur because Rajastan, the province in which Jaipur is located, is known for its textiles. If you go to India, you have to do some shopping because it is such a cultural experience and overall quite enjoyable. You just have to know that if you don’t want to buy, it is better to avoid entering a store. I can almost guarantee that if you enter a store, you will end up buying something, so overwhelming are there sales’ techniques.

It was great to go back to a wonderful hotel after shopping for a couple of hours. Good accommodations do make the difference. I chose well in both Agra and Jaipur. We dined on the rooftop restaurant where their food was decently priced and tasted quite good. How lovely to be able to enjoy a meal then sit and relax as the sun sets and the temperatures become considerably cooler and more amiable. Evenings are truly fantastic in India because the sun is no longer sapping the energy from your being, yet you can fully appreciate the heat and the breeze.

Three of us agreed to visit the Amber Fort the next morning, and even though we tried to make an early start, we managed to take our time and to get to the fort when the sun was already high in the sky. Our driver was fabulous and so funny too. We had to bargain of course regarding the price, but we were armed with the proper price range from our hotel concierge so we were not fazed. It is really important to know how much things cost, then you know what to expect and how to bargain. I hate bargaining with no frame of reference because I neither like to feel as if I am exploiting someone nor as if I am being taken advantage of. This young guy was a hoot. From start to finish, he kept saying, “Everything is possible in India!” We laughed and had a good time.
Amber Fort itself is quite the structure. It is built on top of a hill in the desert and there are fortifications all around the fort, creating a Great-Wall-of-China effect. We spent hours exploring the hidden alleys and rooms that seemed to open up around each corner. You start in one room then see a door, and when you enter the door, you come to a whole other part of the Fort that you could not have imagined existed. The colors were spectacular: something about the color of sand and the immensity of the building really left a wonderful impression on the camera.

From the Amber Fort, we decided to hike up 15 minutes to the next fort. Actually, there are three forts that are a part of this fortification complex. We only made it to two because it was way too hot and we ran out of time. (We hired our driver for half of a day, which is standard for this fortified area.) The walk was deadly, so we took our time and thankfully found an arch under which we rested with an Indian family. An old man was selling small items such as cookies, postcards, and other snacks, so we all took a little break to refuel. When we made it to the second fort, we just sat outside and rested instead of entering. The adventure was the walk and the interaction we had with the Indian family, who was really lovely and curious about us. We shared a really good moment. It is amazing how easy it is to connect with people when you don’t feel a certain pressure, like in the cities or in the tourism industry. Indian people are really lovely people when you can interact with them away from all the craziness.

By the time we reached Jaipur, it was well past lunchtime, so we asked out driver for a good recommendation of a place that is safe yet where the locals eat. Our lunch was fantastic because I used what I had learned about not eating too much when it is hot and did not consume too much food. Everyone was really nice and they even had the one English-speaking person come to take our order, which was sweet. Upon leaving, though, I was confronted with another Indian anomaly: they cannot add to save their lives. Honestly, I do not know if they fudge numbers with other Indians or if they just forget to add properly when they are in the presence of foreigners. Somehow, when we paid the bill had I not paid good attention to the amount they were charging us and how they were adding things up, we would have been charged more than necessary; however, the man did not seem as if he was taking advantage of us and even complimented me on my math skills :)

The Fort wore all of us out and no one felt particularly up for seeing the other significant places in Jaipur. This was the first time I allowed others to dictate what I saw and didn’t see. I was okay with it because I was also completely worn out from the morning, so I took a nap and relaxed. Our last evening together was really nice, eating and talking and sharing last tidbits of information and stories. It was such a blessing to have formed that group for the majority of time in India. It made all the difference.

I slept very little that night and woke up early to catch my 5 am train back to New Delhi, where I would stay only for the day. I started to walk and about halfway there an auto rickshaw driver asked if I wanted a ride, so for 50 cents, I was driven the rest of the way. I slept the whole way back to Delhi in my air-conditioned sleeper compartment, so I woke up ready for a little sightseeing. I took the metro from the train station back to the hotel where I had stayed at the beginning. They were really nice about keeping my bag safe while I went out exploring. I wanted to see a Bollywood film, but there were no English subtitles, so I did not feel like paying for something I could not understand. I returned to Delhi Haat and purchased some final presents and requests from my family. Once again I had a great time drinking chai and looking at all the lovely fabrics. Before taking off for the airport about six hours ahead of schedule, I was one final Indian meal, which was delicious and filled me to the brim. Everything went off without a hitch that day. I had a great time India and hope to go back one day with one or two good travel buddies to share in the experience of a culture that defies all labels.