Senegalese Food

The women are in the process of removing the black particles from the rice.

C'bon: a meal of fried fish, sauteed onions with a bissap and local bean paste and some MSG-flavored sauce

Dakhine: rice with peanut butter, oil, local beans and some smoked fish

I know that you all have been wondering what I eat here in Senegal. What a great question! Senegalese people are very proud of their food and are quite attached to the national dish, ceb bu jen (literally rice and fish), which is prepared in an incalculable number of ways. There are two questions I am frequently asked here in Senegal: have I eaten and do I like ceb bu jen and do I have a husband? Everyone is happy that I like the national dish but is not content to discover that I neither have a husband nor am looking for one ☺ Since this blog entry is about food, I will not go into the subject of marriage here in Senegal, but I will certainly write more on that topic later for it is truly a fascinating aspect of Senegalese society.
Back to food! We eat well here in Senegal, sometimes to the point of bursting or vomiting, to be particularly honest. As the guest, I am expected to eat as much as I can to show my appreciation towards the hosts. My dear family in Pikine is particularly concerned that I eat enough. When I sit down to eat, I prepare myself for consuming a grand quantity of food, whether I want to or not. I have learned that it is easier to refuse a meal than to eat a small portion. When I eat lunch with my host family in Pikine, I do not eat dinner. This system seems to work pretty well and they are used to my tendencies. I wonder what it will be like when I go to live with another family.

Ceb bu jen (literally means rice and fish): Fish, rice (white), bissap, carrots, eggplant, cabbage, manioc, and parsnips

Ceb bu yapp (literally means rice and meat): Rice (white), mutton, carrots, peas, tomatoes, green peppers, liver, and onions (fresh and sauteed onions)

As for how one eats Senegalese food, you have two choices, with a spoon or with your hand. I am happy to report that I can eat with my hand, forming a ball of rice in the palm of my hand and bringing that ball to my mouth without dropping the majority on my clothes or the ground. It is more difficult than you think! Unless you are at a restaurant, everyone eats communally from the same platter. When you are done eating, you get up from the platter or large bowl, which signifies that you are finished. If you are a guest and try to get up prematurely, everyone will tell you to sit and continue to eat. I have learned to stay seated until the food is almost gone because it’s futile otherwise.

Yassa: Fish balls, ground fish with spices, sauteed onions and rice cooked in the Asian way

Another interesting observation regarding the preparation of Senegalese food is the use of MSG. You cannot avoid consuming this flavoring agent because it is found in all the spice packets and pre-packaged sauces from Adja © and Maggi © that Senegalese people are fond of utilizing. Once you have finished your meal, you are certain to continue savoring it for hours. I really do like Senegalese food, but I surely wish it were a little more natural with less oil and less MSG. Along with the spices, natural or chemical, Senegalese food is flavored by either fish, chicken or meat, whether mutton or beef. First the animal substance is fried in a lot of oil, then one extracts the main portions and adds water and various spice mixtures to the big pot along with a handful of vegetables, such as cabbage, carrots, eggplant, parsnips, potatoes, sweet potatoes, or manioc.

A portion of the engorged sheep that was used in the Ceb bu Yapp: For Muslim families, killing a sheep is necessary for the giving of a name during the baptismal ceremony, which takes place eight days after a baby is born.

Fish is an important component of the majority of Senegalese dishes.

After the vegetables are cooked, they are removed from the pot to make room for the rice that has already been steamed using the vapor produced from cooking the vegetables. There are two ways of preparing rice—red or white—that may or may not really be red or white. In fact, the difference is whether tomatoes are used in the sauce that cooks the rice. Sometimes the rice is cooked separately from the sauce, rendering rice similar to the rice prepared in the Asia. The process I described varies greatly depending on the dish. At any rate, it is a little difficult to describe precisely what I am eating and how it is prepared. Enjoy the pictures and hopefully you understand a little better an essential part of Senegalese culture. How profound is the culture of this very intriguing country. More next week… Sending blessings to you and yours.

Tip #8 for traveling on 25 dollars a day: Bring a book or two with you on your voyage that you do not mind exchanging with another traveler. If you do not have an electronic reader, make sure you follow this suggestion. Not only will it save you money on diverting activities, but also book swaps are an interesting way to get to know the tourist population around you. Most hostels and budget accommodation have a bookshelf reserved for its guests to take a book and leave a book. Take a break from television and surfing the Web and read a novel or an exposé on your travels!