La Côte d’Ivoire: Tense Beauty

 

How despicable is violence! It turns what is charming and peaceful into something deformed and repugnant. Even the threat of violence creates a tense environment not easily ignored. In the past 10 years the Ivory Coast has undergone ongoing war and rebellion and a multitude of various attacks on the armed forces, refugees and the general population. Easy to comprehend is the manner in which people remain suspicious of one another and the way in which commerce, agriculture and tourism have suffered dramatically in the wake. Once a thriving West African country, endowed with natural and cultural riches beneficial to the locals and international consumers—bananas, cocoa and coffee and main and substantial exports from Ivory Coast—and bedecked with a cultural heritage fascinating for the curious tourist. Tourism is practically dead; very few people other than those working for the myriad of non-governmental organizations dare venture into this ravishing country.

A trek with friends

with the local cocoa farmers outside of Abengourou

My friend from Switzerland whom I visited last August on my way to Senegal was finishing up a three-month internship in Abidjan—the commercial capital of the Ivory Coast. We coordinated my visited so that we could travel together for several days before she left to return home. Our route began in Abidjan at an outdoor bar/restaurant establishment generally called a maquis (pronounced macky), which serves local fare such as fried plantains, fried sweet potatoes and yams, attiéké (made from cassava and resembles couscous with a sourdough flavor), and grilled fish and meats. We proceeded to the center and the east: Yamoussoukro, the official capital of the Ivory Coast but rather abandoned by the majority of governmental agencies that prefer the action and the location of Abidjan, where the largest Christian edifice is located—very impressive to behold; Lake Kossou, a winsome and tranquil manmade lake by the damming of the Bandama River in 1973; and Abengourou in the east, where we made the acquaintance of the Camaye Cocoa Cooperative, which is composed of over 900 cocoa farmers and aims to protect both the farmers and the environment. Adventurous and pleasant to be with an old friend, we explored the some splendid regions of the Ivory Coast.

in front of one of the former colonial buildings in Grand Bassam

Back in Abidjan, I was blessed to have another friend who I met in Dakar who took good care of me and let me stay at her apartment, becoming a sort of base from which I jumped when I went on my own to the north and the east for 8 days. She and I and some of her colleagues traveled to Grand Bassam, which used to be the capital of the Ivory Coast during the colonial period. Vestiges of the colonial era remain in the form of dilapidated buildings that have either been invaded by nature or transformed by local artists and weavers, altogether creating aesthetic pathos of another time. That same weekend, I left Abidjan with a friend of my Swiss friend, who drove us to Assinie: a beach spot known for its endless sand and exquisite lagoon. A local guide took us around to see the enchanting mangroves found in the unique lagoon characterizing the region with a certain appeal I quite enjoyed. 

at the lagoon of Assinie

Lone traveler

Senfou artists in the north

whipping the shea butter by hand

With a little over a week remaining, I decided to get out of Abidjan and see the north and southeast, both of which were supposed to be memorable places to visit. From Abidjan, I took two mini-buses to reach Katiola, where I stopped for the night to be able to run and rest from the tiring transport. I proceeded to Korhogo, my base for the week. I stayed at a guesthouse belonging to a Catholic mission. It was so peaceful and well-kempt, I felt really happy to have found it by the kind recommendation of a French elderly man who was all to content to give me some advice on how to be safe. I visited the villages of Waraiéné—home of a large cooperative of weavers and clay jewelry makers—and Natio—location of the artisanal production of shea butter. Hiking Mont Korhogo added to the general charm of the region and added a nice aspect of sport I always enjoy when I am traveling alone. 

learning how to weave with expert weavers of Waraiene

Finally, I spent my last weekend in Aboisso, which is located near the border of Ghana and is situated in the middle of palm oil, cocoa, coffee and rubber tree plantations. I spent a minimal amount of time in the town itself and made my way towards the plantations as quickly as I could manage. I started wandering down paths I found and came across a settlement of cocoa farmers. They invited me to sit down and we started to discuss their work and their lives. I decided to return to spend the day with them. What a great blessing to have come in contact with the local people who were interested in sharing their culture with me, including delicious local food made with cassava, peanuts and taro leaves. All I had wanted to experience in the Ivory Coast came to fruition without any disconcerting incidents. The Lord God surely protected my feet and led me to people who took care of me and provided me with a deeper understanding of Ivorian culture.  

surprised by a local girl in the middle of taking a picture